Outdoor Climbing in the Peak District

Chilly top out selfies!

This past Sunday, we finally got to go climb some gritstone! I say finally even though it is only two weeks into our trip, but it has felt like forever. We managed to snag a ride with some members of the Leeds University Climbing Club to a crag just south of Sheffield called Froggatt Edge. The night before our trip to Froggatt, Cailey and I realized that we had no snacks, so a late night trip to the closest corner supermarket commenced and we came home with a large Cadbury chocolate bar, Ginger Nut Hobnobs, and two protein bars...lunch.  We had a big breakfast the next morning and headed off to Froggatt at a leisurely 9 o'clock.

We arrived at the parking spot around 10:15 and started the 15 min walk into the crag on a very muddy, sandy path. Unlike our national parks in Canada, the parks here are dotted with towns, villages and man-made features. We walked through a few gates and fences and the views once we reached  the top of the crag looked out over a gorgeous patchwork of fields and housing. Different than the rockies, but still wonderful in it's own way.

Climbing at Froggatt is on gritstone, a very coarse sandstone which offers a lot of friction, much more than I originally thought...or trusted. Because sandstone is a softer rock you end up getting a lot of sloping, rounded holds.  Froggatt was deposited by river systems a long time ago and because of that you have a lot of interesting shapes in the rocks. For those who don't know, English climbing ethics are quite different than North American climbing ethics. Very few climbs are bolted, except for in dedicated sport climbing areas. and there are climbs in areas such as Downhill Racer at Froggatt have no protection at all and are climbed ropeless (don't worry, we did not pursue any climbs of this type, parents).  There are also no top anchors at many crags in the UK, so once you have led a route, you build a top anchor, belay up a second person who gets your gear back, then you coil the rope and walk back down.  This gets monotonous and very cold after a while.

Our day at Froggatt was great! But slightly on the cold side. It was one of the sunnier days we've had so far and temperatures were around the 8°C at the base of the crag. But the bottom of the crag is sheltered by trees, so as you climb you get more exposed to the wind. Each time we topped out, we were nearly blown over by the extreme winds. It was great to climb on gear again and we both look forward to doing more.

We climbed:
Trapeze Direct - VS 4b - sloppy lieback crux.

Following the guidebooks suggestion of "fill the crux with
runners and give it a go"

Cailey seconding Trapeze Direct 

Sunset Crack - VS 4b - slabby crack climb

Cailey leading Sunset Crack

The top out mantle

Terrace Crack - VS 4c - large moves between awesome holds - super fun 3 stars.

Cailey about to fight with a well placed hex on Terrace Crack

More Terrace Crack

Tody's Wall - HVS 5a - From the guidebooks: "The nightmarish crux is rocking up out right off a large rock" "If perplexed, try a right-facing, leg-cocking layback."

Cailey's triumphant stance below the two awkward
mantles in Tody's Wall. Sadly no other pictures. 

Chequers Buttress - HVS 5b - I seconded this one put up by another member of the climbing club but I plan on getting on it next time.

Seconding Chequers Buttress, Dan Murray on belay at the top
after a solid lead in freezing temperatures.

Pretty photo of Chequers Buttress

Scenic rope coil before a long walk off in climbing shoes

All in all a very exciting day of climbing. We're both very excited to climb more around the UK.

-Danny


Disclaimer: Some of these photos may have been shamelessly stolen from the Facebook albums of Tabetha Post, and Dan Murray.